No. 14, March 20, 2009
Take it easy on the tomalley
Yesterday Health Canada issued an advisory warning us about eating tomalley.
In case it has slipped your mind, tomalley is the liver and pancreas of the lobster, a soft greyish-green substance found when the crustacean’s body is cracked open.
The reason we have to be concerned about eating it? Paralytic shellfish poison.
Apparently a very small number of lobsters harvested during the late fall-early winter 2008 lobster fishing season may have levels of paralytic shellfish poison in the tomalley that could represent a health risk to consumers. Lobsters currently available on the market are likely to have been harvested during this fishing season.
There have been no confirmed cases of paralytic shellfish poisoning from consuming lobster tomalley. Good thing too, for while mild exposure produces a tingling sensation or numbness of the lips shortly after eating, larger doses can lead to headaches, dizziness and nausea, muscular paralysis, respiratory difficulty, choking and even death.
The good news is that we don’t have to give up eating tomalley entirely. Health Canada says that, except for children, we can as much as the amount from one cooked lobster per day.
You wouldn’t think that would be too much of a hardship, except perhaps for some Nova Scotia fisherman who is accustomed to spreading the tomalley from three or four lobsters on toast for breakfast.
It could be that if you are dining on lobsters with someone who doesn’t like it, you might be tempted to say, “Oh, I’ll have yours then,” thus putting yourself over the limit.
I confess that I’ve never been that partial to tomalley, although I usually wind up eating it out of principlewhen I'm having a lobster. I prefer the coral, the red roe of the hen or female lobster, which is not found, for obvious reasons, in the cock, the male.
Tomalley is often said to be “considered a delicacy,” but it could be one of those situations where that is simply because there is little of it.
It’s perhaps a similar case to that of those giant sea turtles –now endangered -- that the elite of the 18th and 19th centuries were inordinately fond of eating. Particularly esteemed as delicacies were calipash and calipee, gelatinous substances found nest to the upper and lower shell, respectively.
Were those “gelatinous substances” really so tasty? Hard to say, but I don’t expect to ever find out.